For One Night a Trip Back in Time

New Year’s Eve in ’70s Fashion, With ‘American Hustle’-Style Makeup and Hair

Skin Deep: 1970s Party Hair(pay only $20~70 for vintage Brazilian hair): Follow these easy steps to recreate a 1970s look for festive occasions.

For New Year’s Eve inspiration this year, one might look to Amy Adams’s glamorous ’70s makeover on “American Hustle” (the beauty equivalent of the plunging sequined minidress). Herein, the film’s hair and makeup experts, along with Gina Brooke, Madonna’s makeup artist, and Michael Angelo, a favorite hairstylist of New York social swans, tell how to get the look you want to know better.

Makeup

“I’ve really noticed the ’70s coming back in makeup in general,” said Evelyne Noraz, the department head of makeup for “American Hustle.” “It was easy for me to just walk in the store and pick up items whose colors worked for the time.” For Ms. Adams, who plays a con artist, she liked Lancôme’s eye-shadow palettes and Hourglass lip colors.

“If you’re talking about the late ’70s, which is when the movie was set, you had almost every color of the spectrum out there,” Ms. Noraz said, pointing to the three-color eye, often in blues, pinks and purples, that was popular into the ’80s.

Jennifer Lawrence, who plays a Long Island housewife in the film, got especially crazy colors, along with dramatically contoured cheeks. “David O. Russell kept saying, ‘More, more, more!’ in the makeup tests,” Ms. Noraz said.

Ms. Brooke’s modern-day version has a subtler touch. “You’re not applying as heavy nor sculpting as much,” she said.

1) She prepped the skin with a lightweight hydrator such as Intraceuticals serum. Next, both face primer and eye primer by Urban Decay were smoothed on. “It keeps everything in place, especially if it’s going to be a long night,” she said. Then with a sponge, she applied Shu Uemura’s Lightbulb Foundation. “I’m obsessed with it,” Ms. Brooke said. “It doesn’t change with different lighting, so you know your party pictures will look good.”

2) To brush up brows and fill in, Ms. Brooke preferred Kevin Aucoin’s fine-tipped pencil.

3) Line upper and lower lash lines. Ms. Brooke used Chanel’s Illusion d’Ombre in Mirifique, a charcoal-black eye shadow with silver flecks and a texture she likened to mousse. “You can use it for a liner and for contouring into the eye crease,” she said. She drew a more elongated eye, very feline and Bianca Jagger. On the lid, she patted Mushroom eye shadow, a warm silver by Urban Decay. And because it’s New Year’s Eve and we’re talking ’70s, she added an extra dab of silver glitter to the center of the lid. The final touches: fake strip lashes trimmed to match your eye shape and a light application of Giorgio Armani fluid highlighter to the brow bone.

4) “Much of the look was about this very aggressive blush that’s like a stripe,” Ms. Brooke said. “But too much blush can really age or date somebody.” Instead, she dusted a neutral-colored hue into the hollows for a hint of sculpturing before sweeping on L’Oréal Visible Lift blush in Rose Gold (“gorgeous on everyone,” $12.95) in an upward slant.

5) Line lips with a burgundy pencil. “There were a lot of rustic red-browns then,” she said, though “sometimes a dark hue can drag your face downwards,” in which case you can sub a peppier deep pink or crimson. For shine, she dabbed that old faithful, Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream, on top.

Hair

For girls with curls, the late ’70s was a glorious era: Hair flowed freely, and frizz was O.K. For “American Hustle,” Kathrine Gordon, Ms. Adams’s personal on-set stylist, drew inspiration in part from old clips of Diane von Furstenberg and Patti Hansen. There was also some of the ’30s and ’40s influence coming back around, like the bouncy coifs of the Breck girl and Brenda Starr, Ms. Gordon said.

“Amy has got gorgeous hair to start,” Ms. Gordon said. “But it’s not curly. It more has a very slight wave to it. So for the tight curls, we used a curling iron all over that was about two pencils thick.” 


Copyright nytimes.com
Posted by Wendy hair